The oldest Jewish sites in France are found in Provence. There is evidence of the existence of Jewish communities in the region since the 1 century c.e
Two historical events had far reaching consequences for the Jews of Provence. Due to infighting and schisms within the papacy in Rome, the official residence of the Pope was moved to Avignon from 1309 – 1377.
The Jews who lived in this area are referred to as Juif de Pape – The Popes Jews.
There are two historical synagogues worth visiting in Provence – both in the Comtat Venaissin region around Avignon. The smaller of the two is in Caviallon. It has many unique features, including a women’s section in a separate room in the basement of the building; a small chair hanging from the ceiling of the main synagogue – which visitors mistaken think is an Elijah’s Chair - used for the baby in a Brit Milah. Actually, this chair was the special place created to situate the Etrog during the Succot festival – so rare and difficult it was to obtain in this region. The synagogue was the old ghetto – and it is easy to envisage what the ghetto would have been like, with the gates at each side of the passageway locked each night, and hundreds of Jews crowded into the narrow street.
The second important event was in 1112 when Provence was brought under Catalonian influence. This influence continued until 1160. This period, which enabled close contact between the centres of Jewish scholarship in Catalonia (particularly Girona and Barcelona) and those in Provence, brought about a golden age of Jewish scholarship in Provence.
The most famous of the Provencal Rabbis was Rabbi Abraham ben David, known as the Rabad of Posquières, in the 12th century.
During the holocaust, the Vichy government agreed to send several thousand Jews to concentration camps in Germany. Jews were rounded up across the south of France, and were sent to Les Milles, outside of Aix, where a brick factory was converted into a temporary detention centre, which they were sent to Germany. A small museum, including one of the train cars used in the deportation, can be found in Les Milles.
Provence had a huge impact on the development of Jewish culture. It was here that the great centres of Ashkenaz and Sepharad met with far reaching results. Anyone who ventures to find the Jewish history in Provence is in for a pleasant surprise.
